By Aisha Hassan on January 17, 2025
Brian Khoo is the creative force behind his eponymous luxury fashion label, celebrated for its bold, functional, and sensuous designs. The Dia team first encountered his creations at the Tatler Ball — it seemed that of the five people Aisha would compliment on their gowns, three of them were wearing Brian Khoo (and Aisha ended up wearing Brian Khoo to Alia’s wedding!).
Born and raised in Sabah, Malaysia, and later living in Melbourne, Australia, Brian’s journey into the world of couture is a tale of passion, perseverance, and artistry. Trained at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) and later at ESMOD Paris, where he earned the prestigious "Best Collection Award," Brian’s formative years reflect a blend of Malaysian heritage and global sophistication. And today he’s still paying it forward, teaching the next generation at The One Academy, which is a franchise of ESMOD. “Teaching has taught me patience and how to adapt to new generations,” Brian says.
Before launching his namesake label, Brian gained invaluable experience with esteemed fashion houses across China, Malaysia, Australia, and France, culminating in a role as a designer assistant at Christian Dior Couture in Paris. Since founding his brand in 2015, Brian has introduced bespoke made-to-measure services and ready-to-wear collections that have been critically acclaimed. His designs have graced Miss Universe Malaysia (yes, that Nasi Lemak dress) and garnered international attention, solidifying his position as one of Malaysia’s premier designers.
Dia is proud to carry a selection of Brian Khoo on our website and in-store at Bangsar Village II. In this interview, Brian opens up about his inspirations, challenges, and the creative journey that shapes his brand.
How did your journey into fashion begin?
My interest in fashion started when I was a kid. I was very close to my mom, who was a seamstress before she married my father. As the youngest child, I was often at home with her, following her as she shopped for fabrics or made clothes. She taught me how to sew simple items like pajamas and trousers, and that sparked my creative interest in fashion.
What was your first big break in the fashion industry?
One of the most exciting moments was interning at Christian Dior Couture in Paris. It was highly competitive to get in, but I was lucky to have a friend recommend me. After interviewing, I started as a designer assistant. It was an incredible experience that taught me the importance of communication and planning in such a high-stakes environment.
How would you describe the DNA of the Brian Khoo brand?
The brand is bold, fun, and functional. I design with the idea that clothes should make a statement while also being versatile and wearable. Sensuous silhouettes, bold colors, and impeccable tailoring are key elements of our designs.
What are some milestones in your career that stand out?
One highlight was dressing Marion Caunter for the Tatler Ball. We created a bold orange dress for her, and after that, orange became our signature color. I’ve also worked on national costumes and evening gowns for Miss Universe Malaysia, which was an exciting opportunity to showcase my work on an international stage.
What challenges have you faced in running your own label?
One of the biggest challenges is building and maintaining a good team. Communication is crucial, especially when it comes to production deadlines and ensuring everything runs smoothly. Managing a team takes patience and constant effort to keep everyone aligned.
What inspires your collections today?
My inspiration comes from people—friends, clients, and their stories. Every collection starts with a storyline, and I try to weave that narrative through the designs. For example, one of my recent collections was inspired by my mother and the polka-dot shirt she wore when I was a child.
Can you tell us about the production process for your garments?
We have a team of eight, with four people dedicated to production. The sampling process is critical to ensure the fit and design are perfect before we move to full production, which is all done in Malaysia.
What advice would you give to aspiring Malaysian designers?
Don’t hesitate. If you have a passion for something, try it. Even if it doesn’t work out, at least you’ll know it wasn’t the right fit. It’s better to try and learn than to wonder “what if.”
What’s next for the Brian Khoo label?
We’re focusing on expanding into international markets, particularly Europe and the Middle East. These are two very different markets, but I’m excited to see how our brand resonates globally.
And finally, what legacy do you want to leave behind?
I want to share everything I’ve learned. There’s no point in keeping knowledge to yourself. Passing it on is important.
This interview has been edited for brevity and clarity.
